I used to hear the word "heirloom" and immediately think "tomato." However, I am now beginning to develop a new deep appreciation: heirloom beans! Though the origin of certain beans can be difficult to determine, many are indigenous to the United States and are not hybrids. I always see the crates of shell beans scattered about the green market this time of year and tend to pass them by on my way to a mound of lettuces or herbs. That all changed after I tasted some. I split open the firm pod of a Flageolet and ate the beans on the spot. Tasting them raw gave me a newfound perspective (and respect) for their flavor. I realized that buying dried varieties at the supermarket, like pinto beans, has left me with the misconception that all beans taste pretty much the same. Here are some local heirloom varieties I have recently bought and enjoyed:

Flageolets: I asked one local farmer, Rick Bishop, what makes his Flageolets taste unique. The flavor was reminiscent of the fresh taste of a green bean mixed with the creamy and nutty flavors I associate with dried beans. "It's definitely the minerals in the soil that give them so much personality," he responded. I brought some back to the restaurant and cooked them with olive oil, salt, pepper, a little water and fresh thyme. They only took about 20 minutes to cook!  The smooth texture with a slight "pop" in my mouth from the delicate skin made it special. I shelled the excess beans and am storing them raw in the freezer for later use. To me, storing heirloom beans in their fresh form in the freezer is a greener way to enjoy beans than cooking them dried.

Black Valentine: They are a deep black color, which, along with their creamy texture, makes for a beautiful and satisfying ingredient. They make me rethink where I want to use my beans. Instead of relegating them to a soup, stew, or purée, I enjoy coupling them with a fresh piece of fish or as part of a salad. The Black Valentines turn purple once cooked and are surprisingly meaty in texture.

Adzuki: This is a very curious and versatile bean variety. I am still undecided about whether they are better in savory or sweet preparations. They make an excellent ice cream or mousse. I also find them delicious cooked and then tossed into a stir-fry at the last minute with a few hazelnuts. Their sweet and earthy tones really pair well with nuts.

Does this mean I never enjoy a god bag of lentils du Puy or a purée of great white northern beans?  Of course not. I recommend soaking dry beans of any kind before using. Skipping on the soaking makes the outer texture harder to chew. It also makes the beans harder to digest. If you are really in a pinch, drop the beans into boiling water for 2-3 minutes, drain and begin cooking them immediately after. This express "blanch" method will help soften the texture.