There is a local diner near my apartment in Manhattan that serves one of the best cheeseburgers I have ever eaten -- char grilled ground beef on a perfectly toasted (and buttered) sesame seed bun dripping with cheese. Unfortunately, the cole slaw served with it is a tasteless sea of mayonnaise and shredded carrots.
This morning I went to my local green market and saw the most beautiful purple heads of cabbage and bright green Brussels sprouts. Right next to them was fresh horseradish. It occurred to me that, like so many other ubiquitous foods, cole slaw has a season too!
This is my fresh version of a classic...
Purple Cabbage and Shaved Brussels Sprout Cole Slaw
8 oz purple cabbage, stem removed, washed, dried, and cut into very thin strips
(Alternatively, shave the cabbage on a Japanese mandolin)
8 oz Brussels sprouts, washed, dried, and thinly sliced
2 stalks celery, tops and ends trimmed, washed, dried, and cut into thin half-moon rounds
1 teaspoon caraway seeds, lightly toasted in a skillet or warmed in a low temperature oven for a couple of minutes
1 tablespoon honey
Juice from 2 lemons
Zest from ½ a lemon
Sea salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
1-2 tablespoons Sherry vinegar, depending on taste
1-2 teaspoons smoked paprika, depending on taste
1-2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce, depending on taste
2 teaspoons fresh (peeled) horseradish, finely grated (or horseradish cream)
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
3-4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ cup sour cream
1. Combine the cabbage, Brussels sprouts, and celery in a large mixing bowl, add the caraway seeds, honey, lemon juice, and zest, season generously with salt and pepper, and toss.
2. In a separate mixing bowl, whisk together the sherry vinegar, paprika, Worcestershire sauce, horseradish cream, and Dijon mustard. Season with salt and pepper. Then, very slowly, add the olive oil to the sherry mixture, constantly whisking so that the olive oil emulsifies and blends with the sherry base. The texture should be fairly thin, so add all of the olive oil. The finished flavor should have a bright acidity, so add more Sherry vinegar and paprika, if needed. Then slowly fold in the sour cream, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, and celery. Season with salt and pepper, toss gently, and serve.
Note: The flavors will intensify and improve after it "rests" in the refrigerator for a day or two.

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