Anyone who has spent time in the outdoors knows what raw tree sap looks, feels, and -- if you're adventurous -- tastes like. And as with the finished syrup product, it is very sticky, but its scent and taste is far more acrid than sweet. Making the sap into the vaunted, sweet syrup we crave with our pancakes and waffles is a tedious but rewarding process done in the late winter and early spring.
Lighter maple syrups are more pleasant for eating in a "raw" state, as on pancakes and waffles. Darker syrups are more suited for use as cooking ingredients in desserts, baked goods, or sweet beverages.
Depending on its color, syrup receives a grade, as other regulated food products do. In the United States the demarcations, in order of increasing darkness, include Grade A Light Amber, Grade A Medium Amber, Grade A Dark Amber, and Grade B. As the color becomes darker, so does the intensity of flavor. Grade B has a flavor that reminds me of Molasses. The darkness of maple syrup usually depends on when in the season the sap is collected.
Sap collection occurs either manually, in buckets, or in more complex plastic pipe siphoning systems. To become syrup the sap must then be reduced all the way down to 2.5% of its original volume. The most straightforward method of reduction is boiling. Different syrup-related products, such as maple butter or maple sugar, require that the sap be boiled for specific amounts of time.
So, how to pick a great maple syrup?
Generally, artisan maple syrups that come from small maple farms, usually in Vermont, are a good bet. I recommend purchasing the syrup in glass because it is non-reactive and allows an unobstructed view of the syrup. Look for a syrup that is uniform in color and viscosity. The syrup sold in tins takes on a metallic taste over time.
And be sure to keep your syrup in a refrigerator after it has been used. Maple syrups do not contain preservatives, so they can spoil easily if left in a warm environment. If you live in the northeastern United States, treat yourself to a trip to a sugar bush and see the magic amber glow made in person.
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