Pardis and I, along with our dear friend Christopher Hirsheimer, flew into Milano and drove through the autumn glory of the Piemonte with the Alps not far on the horizon. The nebbia (or fog) closed in, but did not hide the hazelnut orchards and the bronze and scarlet vineyards. Each ridge is a patchwork of color topped by an old castle, the names of which read like my favorite wine list...Santa Stefano, La Mora, Seralunga.... After months of restaurant research (I had amassed enough eateries to get me through the winter!) we set out to eat and drink the piemonte and we were absolutely delighted with every dining experience, glass of wine, and espresso! Christopher was along to record (by her magical camera) our Italian journey for my upcoming book on Italian food, and the timing could not have been more ideal or photogenic. Aldo Vacca from the illustrious Produtorri del Barbaresco was our unofficial travel guide, and guide he did to the vineyards falling off the ridges of Barbaresco to the cozy trattoria, Antica Tore. Everyone "oohed and aahed" when we mentioned we were going to "Cesare" for Saturday lunch. Turns out he is in his 70s and is renowned as the region's most passionate chef. He is somewhat of a mad scientist in his little kitchen, where a fireplace is loaded with wild game, young kid and local pheasant -- we felt like treasured guests seated at the humble dining room table of his home in the center of a dreamy hilltop village. 

We stayed in Alba, one of my favorite towns in all of Italy.  Nestled between the steep slopes of Barolo and Barbaresco, this is a true wine lover's dream. This affluent town has the perfect walking street flanked on all sides by little cafes, wine bars, pasta shops, and great bookstores. Luckily for us, during this time of year this street hosts the most fabulous WHITE TRUFFLE fair. This gathering of truffle hunters offers fine artisinal foods, but it is the truffle that is king. We headed to the back of the fair to a little cantina filled with plates of fried eggs, fonduta (the creamiest mixture, fondue like of local Fontina), and even, this year, tagliarine on which to shave your truffle. All washed down with the local Barbaresco or Barolo poured from three-liter bottles for a few euros and all at 10:30 in the morning! For me this is the most fun party anywhere, all in this little out-of the-way town, Alba. Pardis and I are ready to move to the Piemonte!

More about the "Trippa Festivale in Barolo" to come...