For the last couple of weeks, the pollen has settled on everything like a golden green shawl -- the earliest, warmest, and driest spring on record in north Alabama. All the tender, fragile peach blossoms that peaked so very early were in danger of an Easter morning frost. The National Guard's helicopters have been asked to come and spin some warm air, but unfortunately they are too occupied with our problems in the Middle East. We all hope that our Chilton County peaches will be spared, and that the helicopters (and their pilots) will eventually come home.

At our three restaurants, this is the time for green, earthy things -- sweet peas, pea tendrils, asparagus, favas, baby artichokes, chives, mint, tender green lettuces, ramps, and watercress. At Chez Fonfon, a grilled pink salmon fillet is served on a mound of "crushed" sweet peas, along with a light egg vinaigrette and a grilled Vidalia shoot. The baked Apalachicola oysters at Highlands are topped with a breadcrumb mixture of chives, mint, and parsley just picked from the garden, baked until crisp, and finished with a rosy plump crawfish sauce. Asparagus soup is served with a sweet pea purée and watercress crostini. A veal shank is served on a Florida creamer potato purée with spring onions, morels, and a lemony gremolata. At Bottega, a Destin grouper is grilled over a hickory fire and served with some baby artichokes, asparagus, and cannellini beans with chive blossoms and chive oil. A Jamison Farm lamb shoulder is served with an asparagus, sugar snap, and farro "risotto" with lots of fresh mint torn over at the last moment. 

For dessert, Alabama strawberries are turned into milkshakes, parfaits with layers of strawberry ice cream, strawberry sauce, and Grand-Marnier-marinated sliced strawberries. A warm buttermilk biscuit is served with sorghum-brown butter sauce and buttermilk ice cream. 

I'm glad spring has sprung!