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Warm Winter Dishes

Posted Tue, Feb 20, 2007, 5:54 pm PST
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The middle of February always seems to be the most forlorn time of winter; the earth is too cold and wet or frozen to begin readying for spring planting. The landscape often seems a bit gray and bleak. Now is the time for hearty cold weather foods to brighten your mood. As much as I love seafood, now is the time for venison, braised lamb, pork shanks, and veal cheeks. And beans of all kinds: barlotti, cannelloni, black, and red beans. This is the time for parsnip and sweet potato purées, butternut squash and rutabagas, Brussels sprouts, and Swiss chard. Our local collard greens and mustard greens are at their best now -- the frost brings out another level of flavor and eating those with smoked pork and a big bowl of gigante lima beans does a soul some good. 

Right now at Highlands, we bring together a Niman Ranch braised pork shank (the meat carefully picked from the bone) with melt-in-your-mouth braised veal cheeks, topped with crisply sautéed veal sweetbreads. These are set on a few local turnips, carrots, and Swiss chard. The broth from long and slow simmered pork shanks is heavenly, and the dish is really one only a restaurant would put together. But at home you might try just one of those elements and find satisfaction. 

At Bottega a duck breast salad with roasted apples, faro, and a fig vinaigrette is just the thing on a cold winter night. The beef short ribs simmered in red wine with cipollini onions and polenta is always a dish to be savored. 

Mardis Gras is just around the corner and the crawfish tails are coming in. We love them in oh-so-many ways, but the homemade ravioli with wilted greens, pancetta, and plump crawfish tails is one that always brings a big smile. 

Roulez les bons temps -- let the good times roll! And be sure and listen to some Zydeco music this week.

Average (2 Ratings): 3 out of 5 stars

1 Comment

  • 1. Posted by Danyale H on Wed, Sep 23, 2009, 1:12 pm PDT

    Hey Franco! It's me Danny! I worked with you during the mid 80's in Highlands. I was the black guy who worked along side Robert . You know the guy from Conneticut. I came to you once to ask if you knew of anyone who could draw me blueprints for an comercial kitchen. It was at Highlands when I asked ; and I believe I interrupted your morning business meeting. I appoligize for that. To make a long story short; I have owned and operated a small deli / convenient store for the last 15 years. I, and my wife Audrey have given it all we have . I would not call it a great success, but it manages to pay the bills; and allow us to go out and enjoy a good meal every now and then. We Are nothing near fancy, But we have good food. Soul food! The best in the state of Alabama!. I will tell you how you can remember me. You asked me once if I had ever hitchhiked. My response to the question was as follows. " A big black man hitchhiking from the state of Alabama! Get serious! We laughed and never crossed that bridge again. I told my wife I had worked with you for a brief period of time. Ever sinse I have mentioned the fact; my wife has made it her mission to buy every book you have ever written; and state the fact that I worked with you. Another fact of rememberance. I dont know who poured vinegar on my cut ribeyes. I have always taken pride in my cooking. It only gave me a reality check on life. A learning experience. If you ever have the time. Give me or my wife Audrey a call at 929-0108, or 451-6039. I'm going to be alright! I have come to understand that no one can make you. You have to find out who you are first and make the best of what you have. I am located at 919 50th street S.W. Jefferson Ave, Birmingham. It would give me great pleasure to have you come by and take a picture with me and my wife to put on our stores wall. I guess it's my first time hitchiking Mr. Stitt. In The state of Alabama! I wonder how far this "Big'Ole" black boy is gong to get! I really enjoyed the experience of working at Highlands. I can only hope that you enjoyed working along side me too. Forever good memories Daniel "Danny" Hinson

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