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My friend and fellow pizza maniac "DJ Bubbles" recently had a chance to try Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix, the only U.S. pizzeria to receive the coveted James Beard award. Here's his report. —Adam
BY DJ BUBBLES — As usual, I've taken my sweet time between articles, and I know that has been a cause of concern for some of you out there looking for the pizza truth, the whole pizza truth, and nothing but the pizza truth. Well, I think you may be in luck, because I think I've found it—and it ain't in New York City!
No, it may actually exist in the great American Southwest, in a little place called Phoenix. Yes, I'm talking about none other than my main man, Chris Bianco and his eponymous restaurant, Pizzeria Bianco, where locals and tourists gladly wait hours in line for their own slice of heaven.
The Southwest is a place of extremes: suffocating heat, fervent religiosity, and unprecedented numbers of strip malls per capita. It is fitting that someone as passionate and singular as Chris would choose Phoenix to perfect his art.
So, what does DJ Bubbles think of the pizza at Pizzeria Bianco? Short answer: It is unquestionably great. There is simply no room for argument that Bianco is making some of the best pies to be had anywhere in the world. The combination of his artisanal approach, uninhibited creativity, and commitment to quality ingredients is first class.
Like Mangieri over at New York's Una Pizza Napoletana, he adheres to Neapolitan baking standards and keeps his wood-fired oven at high temperatures (800 to 900 degrees, depending on the night). But he's certainly not biting anyone's style, either, as he has broken with tradition and created some exciting pizzas that have never been thought of before. I mean, pistachios—who knew? Perhaps that's why he's the only U.S. pizzaiolo with a James Beard award.
THE PIES I ATE
- The Rosa: Mozzarella, red onion, Parmigiano-Reggiano, rosemary, and Arizona pistachios.
- The Biancoverde: Mozz, ricotta, Parmigiano-Reggiano, topped with fresh arugula.
- The Margherita: Tomato sauce, basil, and fresh mozzarella, which Chris Bianco makes on premises.
- The Sonny Boy: Mozz, salami, and gaeta olives.
- He also made a special pie (above) that wasn't on the menu—mozz and roasted red peppers with pockets of a delicious pesto.
All were exceptional. I am not going to elaborate on the details of these pizzas, but do read Robyn Lee's write-up or watch Philip G's video review on Bianco for solid breakdowns.
THE PEFECTION OF BIANCO'S MARGHERITA PIZZA
As many of you already know, I tend to pass judgment on a given pizzeria by trying its Margherita or plain slice. To me, it's the only fair way of putting one joint up against another—every pizzeria makes a pie with just cheese and sauce, maybe some basil, right? Moreover, a plain pie has always been my favorite and summarizes what pizza is all about to me: simplicity and balance.
That said, Bianco's yin is Bianco's yang—no one ingredient overcrowds the others. The mozzarella was slightly rich and buttery, the sauce was both sweet and tangy, the basil was fresh and evenly spread, and the crust supported it all with a crisp strength that belied its soft, artisanal interior. The Margherita was finished with a subtle, spiral pour of olive oil.
I sampled my first slice with a quiet appreciation and smile (and maybe an occasional grunt of approval), as I took in the electric atmosphere around me—the tables of pizza lovers completely in their element; the enthusiastic revelers outside waiting at picnic tables, enjoying their bottles of wine; the upbeat waitstaff diligently refilling glasses of water and iced tea; and, of course, Chris Bianco, making the pies, working the oven, and occasionally stealing a few seconds of the ballgame from the mini TV under the counter. Everyone seemed so happy. When you're having one of those transcendent pizzas, all is right with the world.
Have I had moments like this in New York and in Naples? Of course I have. Does Bianco make the best pizza in the U.S.? In the world? I don't know. I've had a lot of great pizzas in a lot of great restaurants, and I'm not sure if I am in any position to put one up against another anymore—these meals were merely slices in time; unique experiences that will remain with me forever, none better than the other. And with all that said, I had one of those experiences last Saturday. I am happy to report that the force is strong in Phoenix, and we have Chris Bianco to thank for that.
Until next time,
Bubbles out!
PIZZERIA BIANCO
623 East Adams Street, Phoenix AZ 85004
602-258-8300
pizzeriabianco.com
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