In Allure magazine, of all places, there's Anthony Mangierei of Una Pizza Napoletana, telling readers how to find the perfect pizza. An excerpt:
Check out the facilities. When you walk into the restaurant, look for a wood-fire oven-a large brick kiln with a burning fire. The heat it generates cooks the crust perfectly; it will be crispy, yet still chewy and soft, and the ingredients will be cooked just enough for the flavors to combine, but not so much that they lose their form or taste. The place should smell slightly smoky (that's from the oven) and like a really good bakery (that's the dough cooking). But you don't want to smell grease. I know a lot of people associate that aroma with a slice, but trust me, it's not the sign of an amazing pizza.
There are other tells to watch for in the article—cooking time and crust thickness among them—but what you have to keep in mind when you read Mr. Mangieri's advice is that it comes from a very unique point of view. Mr. Mangieri makes a very good pie, to be sure, but if you were to take his advice in Allure, you'd only find yourself eating at a handful—and one handful at that—of pizzerias in the U.S.
So perhaps the story should be titled "How to Find the Perfect Wood-Oven Pizza Made in the Neapolitan Style," because that's really what this tip sheet boils down to.
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