In the early days of California winemaking, it was quite common to see labels like "Hearty Burgundy" or "California Chablis," let alone products like "Champale." Of course, Burgundy, Chablis, and Champagne are all specific regions within France, and in recent years, the Frenchies have decided to protect their place names and products with a vengeance. They have been supported in this effort by other place-specific makers of wine products, like Jerez in Spain (Sherry) and Portugal's Oporto (Port). Real Port only comes from Portugal, just as real Sherry must come from Spain. Ironically, Napa has also recently felt the sting of inferior products borrowing their place name to bolster marketing efforts. (Chinese wines bearing Napa on the label are not likely to taste very tasty!) Ultimately, the consumer wins when wine labels correctly indicate the relative quality and origin of the juice inside, so it's important to understand why place matters.

Nowadays, if you see the word "Chablis" on a label, the wine is likely to in fact be 100% chardonnay from Chablis in France, as opposed to a California kitchen sink blend of whatever white grapes were cheapest to bottle and sell. Chablis is a northern region at the tip of Burgundy that is known for a flinty, mineral style of chardonnay that is free from or very restrained in the use of oak. Lately, I have enjoyed tasting and comparing a whole variety of unoaked chardonnays from around the world. Because this grape is so commonly gussied up with lots of smoky, vanilla, buttery, cinnamon oak flavors, it's useful to taste "cleaner" versions of chardonnay in which the qualities of the grape itself get a chance to shine. It's not that I don't appreciate what oak can bring to a chardonnay -- I just think it's interesting to see what it tastes like in a purer form. Accordingly, winemakers in California and elsewhere are now taking a page from the "real" Chablis and letting chardonnay shine without the addition of oak. 

Below are some favorite examples of these atypical chardonnays that are well worth trying!

1)   Chablis, 1er Cru, "Fourchaume," Vieilles Vignes, Frédéric Magnien  (Chablis, France 2005) - $42.50

I adored this wine when I tried it at a recent North Berkeley Imports tasting, and it was lovely to meet Fred himself while he was in LA. This is a classic style of true Chablis from old vines in two prémier cru vineyard sites that really showcase the stony minerality of the soil -- 100% chardonnay, no oak, 100% delicious with oysters especially.

2)  Lioco Chardonnay, "Stuhlmuller Vineyard"  (Alexander Valley, CA 2005) - $22.00

Sommelier Kevin O'Connor, my former Spago colleague, has teamed with Matt Licklider in this exciting new winemaking partnership. Lioco wines are all about place, and this particular bottling from Stuhlmuller grapes features beautifully clean chardonnay, with notes of crisp Bosc pear. 100% stainless steel fermentation, wild yeast, and minimal winemaking intervention make this an au naturel wine worth trying.

3)  Melville Chardonnay, "Inox - Clone 76"  (Santa Rita Hills, CA  2005) - $30.00

Winemaker Greg Brewer, besides having just about the cutest kids on the planet, also has a deft hand with chardonnay. This Inox bottling (French term for stainless steel) allows the cool climate of the Santa Rita Hills appellation to shine. Warm days and cool nights make for great acidity in chardonnay, and this wine is lean, precise, and lovely with notes of green herbs and clover.

4)  Paige 23 Chardonnay  (Santa Barbara County, CA  2003) - $18.00

Paige 23 is a joint venture of Joe Kalina and Chris Keller, and their wines are no longer the secret of LA sommeliers in the know; I have particularly enjoyed this crisp style of chardonnay, again from the temperate Santa Ynez hills.  They also make a killer syrah, by the way.

5)  Oak Knoll Chardonnay  (Willamette Valley, Oregon  2005)  - $9.95

This little wine is yummy. While pinot noir has been the big success story of Oregon, its chardonnays are also worth exploring. This is a very lean and crisp style of wine that will pair well with pastas or light chicken dishes, or would be great just for sipping on its own. Impressive effort for the price.