The Ten Spot at Costco: The Wine Giant Awakens and Roars

I find Costco to be sort of a surreal place, like being trapped in a Botero painting of America. If big is good, then bigger must be better, even when the unit price on items doesn't actually reveal a bargain behind buying in bulk. For example, I used to buy industrial-sized shampoo and conditioner there, convinced I was saving money since I have an enormous mop of hair. When I dropped one of these monster bottles in the shower and nearly broke my foot, I bought smaller sizes of the same product at Target and realized it was cheaper in the smaller size anyway. 

Hence, the conundrum of Costco: When are you saving money there and when are you not? I first explored buying wine there a few years ago for an LA Times article, and was frankly shocked to find certain products on their shelves and for amazing prices. While they make their money on inexpensive bulk wines from familiar names like Kendall-Jackson chardonnay or, you guessed it, Yellow Tail shiraz, they also offer some pretty high-end stuff too. What Costco has is buying power, and they wield it in a way that has heavily impacted many different products' pricing, from tires to flat screen TVs to wine. Of course, if you are a fancy winemaker with fancy wines, you may not want your label cohabitating near the industrial-size boxes of Pop Tarts or Tampax. Then again, no one buys in quite the same volume as Costco, so a placement there can guarantee sales revenue across an entire vintage for a winemaker, a very attractive proposition. 

Below is a sampling of wines recently purchased at Costco that hit the Ten Spot. Remember, though, that different Costco locations may stock different wines so be sure to browse a bit in the store -- there are always a few bottles worth adding to your cart, right there next to that jumbo jar of beef jerky and enough Jiffy peanut butter to feed your kid's entire elementary school for a year. 

WHITES

1)  Pouilly-Fuissé, Louis Latour  (Burgundy, France 2005)  - $12.89

Pronounced "poo-yee fwis-say," by the way, this wine is 100% chardonnay from the region of Burgundy and is an inexpensive entry to this whole class of wines. While white Burdundies can be extraordinarily expensive, this sipper from négociant Louis Latour is a cheap alternative to super-oaky California chardonnays. 

2)  Sauvignon Blanc, Tohu (Marlborough, New Zealand 2005) - $11.99

I really liked this wine for the price and dug the cool Maori art on the label, too.   It had terrific aromas of white peach and passionfruit, and wasn't as green and herbal as some Marlborough sauvignon blancs can be. This was a big hit with everyone at the holidays.

3)   Champagne, Kirkland brand (Champagne, France NV) - $19.99

Okay, so it's not ten bucks, but I had to try this "house" Champagne from Costco, bottled under their private Kirkland label. This bubbly and a few other similar Kirkland wines are made under the direction of a guy named D.C. Flynt, who is a Master of Wine and an importer. The idea here is to buy up juice in bulk from a particular region but not from a particular grape grower or winery, hence the generic Kirkland label. Yes, it is technically Champagne because all the grapes come from the Champagne region, but the Kirkland label doesn't exactly scream "celebration"! Decent bubbles, but an odd product.

REDS 

4)  Pinot Noir, "Pinot Evil" (Santa Barbara County, CA 2005) - $12.99

This wine affirmed for me why inexpensive pinot noir is crappy. I search and search, as do all winos, for decent pinot that won't break the bank, but the reality is that pinot noir is an expensive grape to grow and an expensive wine to produce.  Cheap pinot just tastes cheap, and this wine was no exception. While the monkeys on the label are cute (see upcoming entry on "critter wines"), the wine is, uh, not so good. Thin, sharp, and a very unpleasant metallic taste on the finish.

5)  Barbera d'Alba, Ruvei, Marchesi di Barolo (Piedmont, Italy 2004) - $11.99

I have always championed barbera as a super food-friendly Italian grape to get to know -- it's high acid and light-bodied, but with pleasing notes of cherry and cocoa powder. A terrific alternative to heavier, more tannic reds, and this version from a big name in Barolo is pretty yummy for the price.

6)  Cabernet Sauvignon, Liberty School (Paso Robles, CA 2004) - $10.99

Paso Robles is hot, hot, hot. That's why grapes like zinfandel and cabernet do well there, whilst pinot noir and chardonnay do not -- they prefer a more mild climate.  This is a middle-of-the-road-effort cabernet, with pretty soft tannins overall and fairly generic cab flavors but for the price, it's a good choice for party wine or everyday drinking.

7)  Cabernet Sauvignon, Los Vascos, Domaines Barons de Rothschild  (Colchagua Valley, Chile 2004) - $6.99

France meets South America -- if you're a Bordelaise family like the legendary Rothschilds of Lafite fame, then you know a thing or two about cabernet sauvignon. Go where land is cheaper and apply that knowledge, and something like this Chilean wine is the result. This style of cabernet has much more in common with Bordeaux than with California -- more tannic structure, notes of tobacco and cedar, and less fruit up-front. I have had this many times in previous vintages, but was pleasantly surprised all over again at just how good this little wine is for the price. Winner!

8)  Zinfandel, Ravenswood  (Napa Valley, CA 2004) - $11.99

Ravenswood is a very recognizable label these days, and one which encompasses a whole tiered selection of zinfandel-based wines. This version is a slight cut above the cheapest that Ravenswood bottles, as the grapes are all sourced from Napa as opposed to from all over California. At 14.5% alcohol, it will please zin fans with its blackberry jam slurpability and sexy plush texture. Zinfandels are all about the fruit, so it isn't nearly as tannic as the cabernet from Chile described above, for example. This wine is best paired with BBQ off your grill for a casual dinner at home.