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My Favorite Brownies

Posted Wed, Apr 25, 2007, 3:30 pm PDT
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This brownie article in the New York Times reminded me of something French pastry chef Francois Payard said to me at a friend's wedding many years ago.

When he found out that Sarabeth Levine of Sarabeth's in New York City had won the James Beard Award for Best Pastry Chef in the U.S., Payard said, in his inimitable French-dipped English, "I cannot believe that. She makes brownies and cookies and pies. She's not a pastry chef, she's a 'bakeur.' And a 'bakeur' is not a pastry chef."

Me, I happen to like brownies and cookies and pies more than I like fancy-pants French confections made of spun sugar and marzipan. That's why I was glad to see the article elevating brownie discourse in her story.

The author loves Nick Malgieri's Supernatural Brownies recipe, which calls for brown sugar. I've never made Malgieri's brownies, though I'm sure they're good. My favorite brownie recipe is from renowned L.A. baker Nancy Silverton. They're intensely chocolaty, chewy, and fudgey in a vastly superior way to any fudge I've ever tasted.

Brownies
- yields fifteen 3-by-4-inch brownies -

Adapted from Nancy Silverton's Pastries from the La Brea Bakery.

Ingredients
3 cups (12 ounces) walnut halves

3 sticks (12 ounces) unsalted butter

1 pound bittersweet chocolate

3 1/2 cups granulated sugar

6 extra large eggs

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

3 1/4 cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour

Unsweetened cocoa powder for dusting, optional

Procedure
1. With rack in middle position, preheat oven to 325°F. Lightly coat 11-by-17-inch jelly-roll pan with melted butter. 

2. Spread the walnuts on a second baking sheet, and toast in oven until lightly browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Shake pan halfway through baking to ensure the nuts toast evenly.

3. In a stainless-steel mixing bowl set over a pot of gently simmering water, melt the butter and chocolate together.

4. Raise oven temperature to 350°F. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the sugar, eggs, vanilla extract, and salt on medium-high until thick and mousselike, 3 to 5 minutes.

5. Add the flour in 3 batches, turning mixer off before each addition and mixing on low speed until combined. Remove bowl from mixer, and stir in melted chocolate mixture and nuts.

6. Pour batter into prepared jelly-roll pan, spread to an even thickness, and bake for 40 minutes, until brownies are firm to the touch.

7. Before serving, slice into 3-by-four-inch squares. If desired, sift a fine layer of cocoa powder over the surface, brushing off excess cocoa for a velvety finish.

Average (10 Ratings): 3.5 out of 5 stars

6 Comments

  • 1. Posted by foxychicka728 on Sat, Apr 28, 2007, 12:34 pm PDT

    Ever wonder which foods should be strongly avoided by those at high risk for cancer? We can begin identifying cancer-causing foods once we know which ingredients in our food cause cancer. Some of those ingredients are food additives and chemicals used to enhance taste, while others are used strictly for appearance or to increase product shelf life. The key to avoiding cancer-causing foods is knowing which ingredients are carcinogens -- or cancer promoters -- and then reading food labels to permanently avoid consuming those ingredients. Cancer tumors develop, in part, by feeding on sugar in the bloodstream. If you eat lots of sugary snacks loaded with simple carbs, you're loading your bloodstream with the chemical energy needed for cancer cells (and tumors) to proliferate. No biological system can live without fuel for its chemical processes, including cancer cells. Thus, one of the strategies to pursue for any anti-cancer diet is to eat low-glycemic diet. That means no refined sugars... ever! No refined grains (white flour, for example), no heavy use of sweeteners and the lifetime avoidance of sugary soda pop. Aside from starving tumors, eating foods low in sugar and avoiding simple carbs will also keep your weight in check while helping prevent blood sugar disorders such as type-2 diabetes. What to avoid on the labels: high-fructose corn syrup, sugar, sucrose, enriched bleached flour, white rice, white pastas, white breads and other "white" foods. The dangers of hydrogenated oils Hydrogenated and partially hydrogenated oils -- another danger -- are developed from otherwise harmless, natural elements. To make them hydrogenated, oils are heated in the presence of hydrogen and metal catalysts. This process helps prolong shelf life but simultaneously creates trans fats, which only have to be disclosed on the label if the food contains more than 0.5 grams per serving. To avoid listing trans fats, or to claim "trans fat free" on their label, food manufacturers simply adjust the serving size until the trans fat content falls under 0.5 grams per serving. This is how you get modern food labels with serving sizes that essentially equate to a single bite of food. Not exactly a "serving" of food, is it? Besides being a cancer factor, trans fats promote heart disease, interrupt metabolic processes, and cause belly fat that crowd the organs and strain the heart. The essential fatty acids that the hydrogenation process removes are responsible for a number of processes in your body. When trans fats replace these essential fatty acids, they occupy the same space without doing the same job. The "anchor" portion of the fatty acid is in place (which is how the body recognizes the fatty acid and puts it to work) but the chemically active part of the fatty acid is twisted, distorted, and missing vital parts. After the hydrogenation process, the fatty acid can't biochemically function in the same way. Things like brain cell function, hormones, gland function, oxygen transport, cell wall function (keeping things in or out of your cells) and digestive tract operation (putting together nutrients and blocking allergens) are adversely affected. Food manufacturers don't tell you this on the product label, of course. Your body needs essential fatty acids and you are programmed to keep eating until you get them. If you're only eating trans fats, you'll never feel fully satiated, because your body will never get the fatty acids it needs for essential function. Since cancer needs high blood sugar and low oxygen levels, a person with lots of belly fat who just can't seem to put down those trans fat cookies or crackers (also loaded with flour and simple s

    Report Abuse
  • 2. Posted by foxychicka728 on Sat, Apr 28, 2007, 12:34 pm PDT

    Ever wonder which foods should be strongly avoided by those at high risk for cancer? We can begin identifying cancer-causing foods once we know which ingredients in our food cause cancer. Some of those ingredients are food additives and chemicals used to enhance taste, while others are used strictly for appearance or to increase product shelf life. The key to avoiding cancer-causing foods is knowing which ingredients are carcinogens -- or cancer promoters -- and then reading food labels to permanently avoid consuming those ingredients. Cancer tumors develop, in part, by feeding on sugar in the bloodstream. If you eat lots of sugary snacks loaded with simple carbs, you're loading your bloodstream with the chemical energy needed for cancer cells (and tumors) to proliferate. No biological system can live without fuel for its chemical processes, including cancer cells. Thus, one of the strategies to pursue for any anti-cancer diet is to eat low-glycemic diet. That means no refined sugars... ever! No refined grains (white flour, for example), no heavy use of sweeteners and the lifetime avoidance of sugary soda pop. Aside from starving tumors, eating foods low in sugar and avoiding simple carbs will also keep your weight in check while helping prevent blood sugar disorders such as type-2 diabetes. What to avoid on the labels: high-fructose corn syrup, sugar, sucrose, enriched bleached flour, white rice, white pastas, white breads and other "white" foods. The dangers of hydrogenated oils Hydrogenated and partially hydrogenated oils -- another danger -- are developed from otherwise harmless, natural elements. To make them hydrogenated, oils are heated in the presence of hydrogen and metal catalysts. This process helps prolong shelf life but simultaneously creates trans fats, which only have to be disclosed on the label if the food contains more than 0.5 grams per serving. To avoid listing trans fats, or to claim "trans fat free" on their label, food manufacturers simply adjust the serving size until the trans fat content falls under 0.5 grams per serving. This is how you get modern food labels with serving sizes that essentially equate to a single bite of food. Not exactly a "serving" of food, is it? Besides being a cancer factor, trans fats promote heart disease, interrupt metabolic processes, and cause belly fat that crowd the organs and strain the heart. The essential fatty acids that the hydrogenation process removes are responsible for a number of processes in your body. When trans fats replace these essential fatty acids, they occupy the same space without doing the same job. The "anchor" portion of the fatty acid is in place (which is how the body recognizes the fatty acid and puts it to work) but the chemically active part of the fatty acid is twisted, distorted, and missing vital parts. After the hydrogenation process, the fatty acid can't biochemically function in the same way. Things like brain cell function, hormones, gland function, oxygen transport, cell wall function (keeping things in or out of your cells) and digestive tract operation (putting together nutrients and blocking allergens) are adversely affected. Food manufacturers don't tell you this on the product label, of course. Your body needs essential fatty acids and you are programmed to keep eating until you get them. If you're only eating trans fats, you'll never feel fully satiated, because your body will never get the fatty acids it needs for essential function. Since cancer needs high blood sugar and low oxygen levels, a person with lots of belly fat who just can't seem to put down those trans fat cookies or crackers (also loaded with flour and simple s

    Report Abuse
  • 3. Posted by irisheyes on Sat, Apr 28, 2007, 1:23 pm PDT

    Has anyone tried making the recipe? I thought that's was the main purpose of this comments page. It would be interesting to hear from someone who actually cooks.

    Report Abuse
  • 4. Posted by pappalovesnana on Sat, Apr 28, 2007, 2:32 pm PDT

    irisheyes-didn't try this one-just too many here is a good one from my aunt shorty melt 1 stick oleo, 2Tcocoa, 1 c sugar, then add 1/2c flour, 2 eggs, 1T vanilla, 1/2 c pecans; pour into greased 8 or 9" pan and bake at 35o for 30-35 ,inutes (don't try to double recipe) Good and goey

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  • 5. Posted by David M on Sat, Apr 28, 2007, 3:16 pm PDT

    Oh good grief! I'm with pappalovenana! Someone should try the recipe and save the nutritional rant for some other, perhaps more receptive, site.

    Report Abuse
  • 6. Posted by NORTON on Tue, Feb 19, 2008, 3:36 pm PST

    you guys there just brownies if you really care about the nutritional facts then DON'T make them. and why do care so much!!!!!!! i dont even know why you spend like 20 minutes or whatever typing a whole paragraph on a RECIPE!!!!!!!!1

    Report Abuse

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