For the lead-up to Labor Day, we talked to expert burger men George Motz, author of A Hamburger America, and Adam Kuban of A Hamburger Today. Here's what they had to say about how civilians tend to ruin a perfectly good American dish...
1. Not Sticking to Salt Plus
Beef:
Use Kosher salt (and pepper!) on both sides of the beef patty before slapping it
onto the grill. Salt is a glorious thing for red meat-it draws out the natural
juices and helps with the charring. Try to avoid turkey, bison or other alternative meat options, which have a much
higher risk of moisture and flavor deficiency. Don't get crazy here, just stick
with beef. Motz even says, "if it's not beef, it's not a burger." Here is Bobby
Flay's recipe for the perfect beef burger.
2.
Bad Beef-to-Bun Balance: There's no hard-and-fast ratio for
beef-to-bun balance. It's like Supreme Court Justice Potter Stewart said in
Jacobellis v. Ohio
(1964) "I know it when I see it." In the case of beef-to-bun balance, taste it. Beef-to-bun balance all depends
on your patty size. If you're cooking up a thin patty, don't use a jumbo bun-you
don't want a mouthful of bread and hardly any meat, do you? When in doubt, make
your patties bigger or stack a double burger. It's bettern to err on the
side of more meat.
3. Condiment
Overload: Building a burger with "everything" is a huge mistake.
Avoid the garbage pail approach. In most cases, going beyond onion and ketchup
(arguably the most
popular condiment) masks the beef taste and creates an absurd flavor
profile. Seriously, a pastrami
burger? Pastrami is not a condiment. However, we will make one exception for
Fatty Melts-when grilled cheeses become condiments.
4. Wasting Precious Burger Juices: If
you're cooking the burgers over a flame, pressing
down on them will send the precious meat juices straight into the coals.
Those juices are valuable-they belong in your mouth. While it's very tempting to
apply pressure with a spatula, don't. Unless you want a dry hockey puck.
Sometimes they do it on TV, but just close your eyes.
5. Overcooking: This should be a crime
recognized by the federal government. For the popular medium-rare, grill the
meat exactly three minutes on one side (keeping the grill lid closed) and two
minutes on the other. If you're going to add cheese, let it melt on top for
another minute (and keep that cover closed!). We like our burgers medium rare,
so much we've even sent
them back at restaurants when they go beyond medium.
6. Machine-Formed Patties: If you really
want to ruin your burger, try a machine-formed frozen patty! No, don't. While
making every ingredient from scratch is not necessary (see: Heston
Blumenthal's Blumenburger) try to form your own patties from ground chuck
(80 percent lean is good) purchased at your nearest market or better yet,
butcher.

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