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Top Secrets of The Best New Chefs

Posted Sun, Jun 17, 2007, 11:44 pm PDT
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This weekend the best and brightest food stars came together in Aspen, Colorado to demo and dish at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. From celebrity chef poker games to decadent wine tastings, it's basically summer camp for all things food. 

At the classic Food & Wine presents their hand-picked, 2007 "Best New Chefs" from across the nation to critics, chefs, and serious eaters. I spent time behind the scenes and in the kitchen with the winners as they prepared their signature dishes for the biggest players in the food world. Here are some of their most tightly held secrets that I uncovered.

Ian Schnoebelen - Iris, New Orleans, Louisiana
Citrus Salt
Add citrus salt to seafood for a nice lift. Take lime, lemon, orange peels or zest, and blend them in a food processor with some kosher salt and you're done. 

Paul  VivrantVie, Western Springs, Illinois
Pickling Juices
Use quality ingredients (Vivrant recommends good champagne vinegar, Meyer lemons and sea salt) to pickle vegetables and get two for the price of one: You can use the pickling juices as a vinaigrette or a marinade for fish and meats.

April Bloomfield, The Spotted Pig, New York, New York
Acidity
Add acidity in everything to bring out the flavor in food. Lemon, orange, tomatoes, lime, aged balsamic vinegar or cherry vinaigrette makes every dish brighter.

Sean O' BrienMyth, San Francisco, California
Make Your Own Salt
Ditch the iodized salts and make your own flavored kind - take herbs like Rosemary from your garden and crush them up with some salt for an enhanced flavor.

Gavin Kaysen - El Bizcocho, San Diego, California
Pimente d' Espelette (a ground red chile pepper)
Season fish with pimente d' espelette instead of using pepper. Pepper adds a bittery taste while pimente de espelette makes fish sweeter. Superb in ceviche.

Steve Corry - Five Fifty Five, Portland, Maine
Taste Your Food
Taste it when you buy it. Taste it when you bring it home. Taste it as you cook it and taste it before you serve it. His motto: "Go for it, even at the farmers market. You won't get arrested."

Gabriel Bremer - Salts, Cambridge, Massachusetts
Go Global
Always research new techniques. Gabriel looks to Spain, Italy, and even old Japanese techniques to discover ways to add something new to his cooking.

Johnny MonisKomi, Washington DC
Take Your Time
Johnny wants people to feel that they are eating in his home so he slows it down and lets people enjoy themselves. "It's not unusual for a meal to take three hours," he said. 

Matthew DillonSitka & Spruce, Seattle, Washington
When I asked Matt what his secret is, he smiled devilishly and replied "if I told you, it wouldn't be a secret." Good point Matt. Finally, he gave it up and said, "Have close relationships with farmers and purveyors. Learn from them. It's through these relationships that you can trust you're getting the best."

And, lastly, an interesting one that may have been best kept secret... 

Gabriel Rucker - Le Pigeon, Portland, Oregon                        Fat                                                                                              
Cook with Fat. Cook with all of the animal parts - use the innards and just get as much fat into your food as possible.

 

Average (308 Ratings): 3.5 out of 5 stars

  • 1. Posted by rtpilch on Mon, Jun 18, 2007, 1:05 pm PDT

    Useful tips and interesting article. Can't wait to read more!

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  • 2. Posted by lehrerrandy on Mon, Jun 18, 2007, 2:34 pm PDT

    Its fun to get up close to how these chefs think. I will be squeezing lemon on everything when I cook for a big dinner party this weekend. Thanks for sharing all these tips.

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  • 3. Posted by food4u830 on Mon, Jun 18, 2007, 2:37 pm PDT

    Pickling juice vinegrette sounds good. Off to the market to see if there is any ready made. Any ideas of what to add to the juice?

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  • 4. Posted by John Rosenthal on Mon, Jun 18, 2007, 4:18 pm PDT

    I love tasting food at the farmer's market here in Santa Monica. It's the best way to find the best food.

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  • 5. Posted by zdmiller on Mon, Jun 18, 2007, 9:06 pm PDT

    magnificent maggie nemser, thank you for the excellent collection of secret tips. i've got a whole new shopping list for this weekend's trip to the farmer's market.

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  • 6. Posted by skatewildfun on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 5:58 am PDT

    Great tips! When making certain soups, I throw in a celery leaf or 2 to give it a fresh flavour......

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  • 7. Posted by catgirl2223 on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 6:16 am PDT

    These are great tips. I just don't like the last one about getting as much fat into your food as possible! That is the most horrible thing I ever heard, as if we weren't fat enough.

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  • 8. Posted by Peter K on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 6:44 am PDT

    i like the last one. nothing adds touch to the dish as bacon fat.

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  • 9. Posted by rush_santoria on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 7:16 am PDT

    I agree with the last secret. Stuff like fat and those "inedible" animal parts really add flavor to the food. Don't be brainwashed into believing that all fat is bad for you. Choose your fat wisely because not only is it what gives your food a nice flavor and texture but it is also an essential part of a balanced diet.

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  • 10. Posted by emma on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 7:44 am PDT

    Cook w/ fat a secret to great food! Please! My secret for desserts is sugar.

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  • 11. Posted by Heather on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 8:05 am PDT

    Sounds like the dishes would be high in sodium and fat which is not a good thing. What happened to just enjoying the natural flavors of foods?

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  • 12. Posted by machine.head69 on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 8:31 am PDT

    I AGREE WITH ALL THE SECRETS,JUST REMEMBER EVRYTHING IS GOOD IN MODERATION !!!!!!!!

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  • 13. Posted by at_h2o on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 9:07 am PDT

    last I heard, animal fat was natural

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  • 14. Posted by gingertorch on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 10:13 am PDT

    great tips! when i prepare soup or stew i add a little sugar or sweetener but not to the point that you can actually taste the sweetness. it adds that certain something to the dish.

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  • 15. Posted by mcse4u on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 10:14 am PDT

    Mmmmm....Salt. How many years of culinary school did they go to, to learn that 'secret' ??? I love these articles that add no real value to our lives. When was the last time you saw pimente d' espelette in YOUR supermarket????

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  • 16. Posted by Glenn G on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 10:42 am PDT

    Anyone else think Maggie is HOT??

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  • 17. Posted by lil lisa on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 10:43 am PDT

    these are mostly all completely ridiculous. I especially like cook with fat. Just what all of the already morbidly obesce average americans need in their diet. I like to complement any meal with a large glass of bacon grease, it really cleanses the pallet, to spice it up you can season it with your own homemade flavored salt! Yum yum!

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  • 18. Posted by mpionus on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 10:45 am PDT

    Oh god, here we go with the health nazis who think fat is all bad and it's to blame for them being overweight, not their lack of control. News flash people: Fat is flavor. It's not the reason you're fat. You're fat because you can't stop eating.

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  • 19. Posted by neeshajenkins on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 11:09 am PDT

    Ewww! Don't like the last tip! Leave the fat out it's gross and not good for you at all. The other tips are very good though.

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  • 20. Posted by Paul C on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 11:12 am PDT

    To the Food Nazis... are you familiar with the phrase, "moderation in all things?" It's not that people use fat and salt in the cooking, it's that they use to much that causes the problems, like an alcoholic who doesn't know when to stop. Not one of these cooks said this was their only secret, just one of the things they do to add flavor to their cooking. I for one find that using the pickling juices from a finished jar of olives and adding some balsamic vinegar or a little lemon juice, or some other seasonings, makes a great marinade for poultry or fish. So yeah, these are good suggestions and if you don't like them, go elsewhere and find a site that caters to your "no seasoning cause it might be bad for me" attitudes!

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  • 21. Posted by ldc_421 on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 11:17 am PDT

    mpionus - you don't get fat from overeating....you get fat from not exercising and burning calories. You can overeat, exercise and burn those calories and not become overweight. Compulsive eaters do it all the time. People are fat because they don't burn the calories they consume period.

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  • 22. Posted by flexylexy_9000 on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 12:02 pm PDT

    ldc_421 - Spoken by a true fattie.

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  • 23. Posted by flexylexy_9000 on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 12:05 pm PDT

    The last tip, "get as much fat into your food as possible." This is hogwash. Some fat is good for you, but animal fat is bad and should be used very sparingly. Beware of chefs who love fat and excess salt. They have no creativity. There are ways to bring out a food's flavor without making the main flavor salt and fat. That's the easy way out, and not a healthy one.

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  • 24. Posted by mina_one_and_only on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 12:52 pm PDT

    I love these types of cooking tips and can't wait to hear more. Keep 'em coming!

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  • 25. Posted by Cindybin on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 1:34 pm PDT

    I would have more respect for Food and Wine Magazine if they did not promote and glorify alcohol.

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  • 26. Posted by vanillaskinn on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 1:34 pm PDT

    i attend one of the most renouned culinary schools in the US, and i must say, i love the people who bash this article. if you had any food knowledge whatsoever, you'de understand that these comments weren't meant to deeply inlighten; but rather, to spark interest and creativity in the kitchen. so sod off.

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  • 27. Posted by Ren Renfield on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 1:35 pm PDT

    Adding fat for flavor is a great tip. Now the Chef that said that didn't mean add 6 cups of bacon fat to your gravy for a serving of 4. He was reffering to something more along the lines off. add 8oz bacon fat to the gravy for a serving of 50. That little bit gives it a bang. Cooking meat without cutting the fat off is the ONLY way to cook a good steak. Cut the fat off after.

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  • 28. Posted by Rock808 on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 1:35 pm PDT

    I agree GlennG, Maggie looks very cute

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  • 29. Posted by loc duong on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 1:36 pm PDT

    hello these tips are like master pieces of these chef and thankx for sharing your secret hahahahahahaha xxx good stuff for sex to

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  • 30. Posted by loc duong on Tue, Jun 19, 2007, 1:37 pm PDT

    hello these tips are like master pieces of these chef and thankx for sharing your secret hahahahahahaha xxx good stuff for sex too

    Report Abuse

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