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Sticks & Stones

Posted Wed, Feb 21, 2007, 8:59 am PST
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There's so much more to owning a restaurant than just the food. While the quality of the fare should be a restaurateur's first concern, personal appearance should be the second. Especially if the restaurant is a Manhattan scene and said restaurateur is a woman.

I am constantly on display at davidburke & donatella. And my customers won't let me forget it, either. Showing up on Page Six is one thing, but it's actually quite amazing what people feel compelled to say to my face.

Whether it's my heel height, jewelry selection, hair color, or lack there-of (e.g. "Your roots are showing"), many of my customers feel it's their duty to analyze my appearance. And when I started in this business, I took the criticism--no matter how constructive--to heart. But now, when I'm told that I should lose weight and gain weight in the same night, I just have to laugh.

Sure, it's a little unfair that male restaurateurs (I'm not naming any names) aren't under the same kind of aesthetic microscope, but it's just part of the business. And unless the comments are coming from a bad place, I give the guest the perfunctory tap on the shoulder, and walk away.

But for anyone hoping to get a last minute reservation, tell me you've never seen me looking so great. Ask me if I've lost weight and you might even get a little something sent to your table.

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