It's always frustrating for me to read recipes that suggest some fraction of a teaspoon of an herb. In my cookbooks it's rare to find herb-infused recipes that use less than a quarter-cup of fresh herbs; some even require several whole cups. Using fresh herbs in these kinds of quantities produces dishes that are lively, vibrant, and incredibly satisfying.
Herbs used in large quantities create taste revelations that aren't easily forgotten; can you remember the first time you tasted basil-based pesto? I sure can -- and I recall being stunned at how good something could taste.
I think that many of us home cooks are too used to seeing dried herbs in recipes, the quantities of which are often minute, and falsely assume that we need equally tiny amounts of fresh herbs, too.
Have you ever tried fresh oregano leaves in quantity? Imagine the following oregano pesto:
- 3 cups fresh oregano leaves, stripped from their stems
- 1 teaspoon garlic (or, even better, garlic confit, to be covered in a new entry soon)
- 1/4 cup cashews, slightly browned in a skillet (no oil)
- 1/2 cup very fruity extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 tablespoons plain yogurt
- plenty of freshly ground pepper and sea salt
Blend all of the above in a blender, and spoon it over the hot pasta of your choice. It's incredible! The yogurt makes the whole thing creamy and light, and the cashews give it a toasty depth.
Tarragon is another fresh herb that I love to use in large quantities. Saute some onions (or shallots, or scallions, or a combo) in olive oil until soft, then transfer to a blender. To that add at least a cup of fresh tarragon leaves and whir it around. Add this lovely green goo to chicken thighs, and bake them in a 375 oven for 45 minutes or so. Or add the same "pesto" to a head of chopped cauliflower, and bake that.
Using fresh herbs by the fistful is an easy, healthy way to inject serious flavor into your cooking. And if anyone reading this has a favorite way to use at least a cup of some fresh herb, I'd love to hear about it!
My new book is finally ready! You can get a personalized copy from me, through your local bookstore, or online.
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