Ginger plays a huge role in the breakaway kitchen, but judicious and creative use of pickled ginger -- that small mound of ginger sushi chefs give you with your sushi -- will forever change the way you cook.
Pickled ginger -- or gari, in Japanese sushi-speak -- traditionally functions as a palate cleanser between bites of fish; it really neutralizes fish oils and wakes the mouth up. But it's also fantastic sprinkled on salads, alongside barbecued meats and fish, and on top of fried tofu (try a slice between bites).
But the pickling vinegar the ginger steeps in is also superb on its own, after you've finished eating all the ginger. You can use the ginger-infused vinegar as you would any vinegar -- in vinaigrettes, as part of a sauce, on fish.
Gari is usually made by combing shaved ginger with rice vinegar and white sugar, but it's much more interesting when you introduce fruity vinegars and complex sweeteners.
I like to make gari with fruit vinegars like raspberry, cherry, and fig, but also with balsamics and wine vinegars. Instead of white sugar, I use maple syrup, flavored honey (blackberry honey and orange blossom honey are especially nice), and even jam.
You can make gari from any ginger, but the young variety is especially good for gari. Look for vibrantly pink and plump ginger, and avoid ginger that looks withered and tired.
The formula is easy to remember: 1 part ginger, 1 part vinegar, and sweetener (to taste). Peel and shave enough ginger to produce about a cup, and blanch it in boiling water for a few minutes to remove some of the pungency. Then combine 1 cup vinegar with a few tablespoons of sweetener and place everything in a jar. It keeps in the fridge for at least six months, but mine rarely lasts more than a few weeks.
I'd love to hear about new breakaway pickled gingers, and what you do with them; the gari addiction club is accepting new members!

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